Seoknamsa Temple, Ulsan, South Korea
557,
Seongnam-ro, Sangbuk-myeon, Ulju-gun, Ulsan, Republic of Korea
On
either side of Gajisan in South Gyeongsang Province, two well-known temples
stand facing east and west. To the east lies Tongdosa in Eonyang, and to the
west, Pyochungsa in Miryang. Seoknamsa is a branch temple of Tongdosa and
serves as a training ground for Buddhist nuns. It was founded in 824 AD, the
sixteenth year of King Heondeok of Silla, by the National Preceptor Douи.
Burned to the ground during the Japanese invasions of 1592, it was rebuilt in
1674, the fifteenth year of King Hyeonjong of Joseon, through the patronage of
the local magistrate of Eonyang, only to be reduced to ruins again during the
Korean War. It was restored once more in 1959 and has stood in its present form
ever since.
With
the incorporation of Eonyang into the metropolitan city of Ulsan, the area
became part of Ulju County administratively, yet Gajisan — where Seoknamsa is
situated — remains deep mountain terrain. Even so, the temple's parking lot
serves as the terminus for city buses running frequently from downtown Ulsan.
Arriving from Miryang, I found the parking area equipped with a range of
amenities for visitors. From there, passing through the iljumun gate
and following a straight path for roughly one kilometer, the temple appears at
last on a hill at the head of the valley.
It
was early winter, and the trees stood bare and skeletal, stripped of every
leaf. Yet the setting — the valley, the contours of the land — made it easy to
imagine the breathtaking display of autumn foliage that must transform this
place each year, setting Seoknamsa ablaze with color. Because the temple was
restored as recently as 1959, few significant cultural artifacts remain on the
grounds. The one notable exception is the stone stupa of National Preceptor
Doui, designated Treasure No. 369. Crossing the bridge that spans the valley
stream and climbing a short flight of steps, one arrives at the courtyard of
the Daeungjeon main hall, where a mountain peak comes into full view to the
left.
With
the sun caught upon that peak, the scene was magnificent — clear proof that the
site of Seoknamsa was chosen with great deliberate care. Looking up at the
stone retaining walls of the temple from the valley below, one has no inkling
of the panorama waiting within. But step through into the grounds and an
entirely different world opens up. Though Seoknamsa draws large numbers of
visitors thanks to its location within Ulsan and its convenient access, its
quiet dignity is in no way diminished by the comparison with other temples.
On
the way back, I boarded a city bus at the terminus and rode it down the
mountain, struck by just how many facilities and developments were tucked into
every corner of the hillside along the way. However deep in the mountains it
may feel, this is ultimately a major metropolitan city — and the surroundings
make that plain. Some thirty minutes later, arriving in the old town center of
Eonyang, the contrast was complete. Buses bound for Busan and Ulsan pulled up
at the stop every five or ten minutes, and the tranquil world of Seoknamsa felt
as though it belonged to an entirely different realm.
If you would like to experience a unique side of Korea, the "Land of the Morning Calm," please feel free to reach out. I host small, private guided tours tailored for international visitors.
Contact: 7sevensmart@gmail.com
https://korean-heritage-trail.blogspot.com/
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