Ssanggyesa Temple, Hadong, South Korea

Ssanggyesa Temple, Hadong, South Korea

59, Ssanggyesa-gil, Hwagae-myeon, Hadong-gun, Gyeongsangnam-do, Republic of Korea

While many of the temples associated with Jirisan lie primarily within South Jeolla Province, Ssanggyesa is located in Hadong County, South Gyeongsang Province — situated, in other words, on the eastern slopes of Jirisan. It is the largest temple on Jirisan after Hwaeomsa, and currently serves as the head temple of the 13th district of the Jogye Order of Korean Buddhism. According to records, it was founded in 840 AD, the second year of King Munseong of Silla, by the Seon master Jingam under the name Okcheonsa. After numerous restorations over the centuries, it was rebuilt in its present form in 1632, the tenth year of King Injo of Joseon, by the monk Byeogam.

At the entrance to Ssanggyesa lies the famous Hwagae Market, lending the temple even greater renown. Ssanggyesa is also widely celebrated as one of the country's most spectacular destinations for cherry blossoms in spring. Administratively part of Hadong County, the temple is served by hourly buses from Hadong town. The roughly four-kilometer stretch of road from Hwagae Market to Ssanggyesa is completely canopied in cherry blossoms each spring, making it one of the most beloved cherry blossom spots in all of Korea. Within the temple grounds, a remarkable collection of cultural heritage survives, including National Treasure No. 47 — the Memorial Stele of Seon Master Jingam — as well as Treasure No. 380, the stone stupas of Ssanggyesa, and Treasure No. 500, the Daeungjeon main hall.

Among these, the Memorial Stele of Seon Master Jingam is considered the finest surviving example of its kind in Korea. Erected in 887 AD, the first year of Queen Jinsong of Silla, it is a masterwork that faithfully follows the stele traditions of the late Silla period. The inscription and calligraphy are the work of Choe Chiwon, the most celebrated literary figure of his age. Over the course of a thousand years, the section recording the date of its construction was lost, but fortunately a woodblock transcription of the inscription made in 1725, the first year of King Yeongjo of Joseon, has survived and confirms that the stele was indeed erected in 887.

Though detailed historical records are scarce, the Daeungjeon — Treasure No. 500 — is a single-story hip-and-gable dapo-style structure spanning five bays across the front and four bays deep, representing a fine example of mid-Joseon architectural style. With the Daeungjeon at its center, the temple complex descends the sloping mountainside in a series of terraced levels, arranging its buildings in close succession from the Haetal-mun gate at the bottom all the way up to the main hall. Ssanggyesa is considered a prime example of a mountain temple that harmonizes its layout with the natural terrain. And as if to celebrate its place on Jirisan, the grounds were ablaze with vivid autumn foliage even in late fall.

Another well-known attraction associated with Ssanggyesa is Buril Falls, reached by following the hiking trail that climbs behind the temple — a spot with a devoted following among those who love the mountains. Set deep within the forested peaks, the temple offers no sweeping panoramic views, but what it does offer is something altogether different: the crisp, refreshing air of a deep woodland, as though one had wandered into a forest bathing retreat, with the quiet, distinctive scent of a Buddhist temple drifting through the early morning mist.

If you would like to experience a unique side of Korea, the "Land of the Morning Calm," please feel free to reach out. I host small, private guided tours tailored for international visitors.

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