Gaesimsa Temple, Seosan, South Korea

Gaesimsa Temple, Seosan, South Korea

321-86, Gaesimsa-ro, Unsan-myeon, Seosan-si, Chungcheongnam-do, Republic of Korea

Hidden away in Sinchang-ri, Unsan-myeon, Seosan City, South Chungcheong Province, lies a temple that can only be described as a hidden gem. Little known to the general public for much of its history, it was brought to wider attention when Professor Yoo Hong-june — who later served as Commissioner of the Cultural Heritage Administration — introduced it in one of his books. Getting there is no simple matter either: there is no public transportation of any kind, and visitors must arrive by private car or taxi. Even so, the number of people making the trip appears to be growing of late, and restaurants and other amenities have been appearing one by one in the surrounding area.

Gaesimsa is a subsidiary temple of Sudeoksa, the head temple of the seventh district of the Jogye Order. According to tradition, it was founded in 651 — the eleventh year of King Uija of Baekje — by the National Monk Hyegam, under the name Gaewonsa. It was renamed Gaesimsa when the monk Cheoneung undertook a major reconstruction in 1350, and was rebuilt again in 1475, the sixth year of King Seongjong of Joseon, before undergoing comprehensive restoration in 1955. The main hall, Daeungjeon, designated Treasure No. 143, is a wooden structure built in 1484 during the fourteenth year of King Seongjong's reign. It is a single-story building of three bays across the front and three bays along the sides. Its structural system blends the dapo and jusimpo bracket styles, and its fundamental composition bears a close resemblance to the Geungnakjeon at Muwisa Temple — one of the most representative jusimpo structures of the early Joseon period.

Stepping out of the parking area and looking up the stone steps, one is greeted by the Beomjongak bell pavilion and the Anyangnu gate pavilion. The calligraphy on the signboard reading "Gaesimsa of Sangwangsan Mountain" captures, in a single glance, the entire spirit of this place. Passing through Anyangnu leads directly into the courtyard in front of Daeungjeon, a space suffused with the scent of aged timber. The Muryangsu Hall nearby immediately draws the eye with its remarkable columns — rough-hewn timber used exactly as nature left it, with all its irregularities intact, so that the pillars supporting the building are uneven and organic in form. It is this quality of natural beauty, unforced and unstudied, that makes this temple all the more endearing.

Gaesimsa is especially celebrated for its cherry blossoms in April. When the wild mountain cherries bloom across the hillsides and the ornamental cherry tree in front of the Myeongbujeon hall bursts into full flower, the temple is said to take on an almost fantastical appearance. I have not yet had the chance to visit at that time of year, but simply taking in the restrained, dignified atmosphere of the grounds is more than enough to conjure the image. The arrangement of the temple buildings — to which nothing could be added and from which nothing could be taken away — seems to distill the essence of traditional Korean Buddhist architecture into a single, quietly complete composition. I found it so thoroughly satisfying that even after I had finished exploring, I lingered for a long while, sitting on the wooden veranda, reluctant to leave.

It is only a couple of hours from Seoul, so if someone were to ask me to recommend a temple worth a day trip, I would suggest Gaesimsa in Seosan without a moment's hesitation. It is not convenient to reach without a car, but it is not so far away, and it retains every quality that a great temple should possess — untouched, as yet, by the encroachments of the modern world. My sincere hope is that it will never be diminished by an excess of visitors or the disruptions of over-zealous construction, and that Gaesimsa will go on preserving its beautiful form for many years to come.

If you would like to experience a unique side of Korea, the "Land of the Morning Calm," please feel free to reach out. I host small, private guided tours tailored for international visitors.

Contact: 7sevensmart@gmail.com

https://korean-heritage-trail.blogspot.com/
https://www.photonuri.com